Anyone know where I can get one for cheaper than 50 bucks? Looking to get one to help with my next task of safety wiring the entire bike (Wera spec) but I cant seem to grasp spending 50 bucks on something that simply holds a bolt in place. Has anyone created their own tool? Anyone have one that will let me rent or borrow?
^^^THis.... No need for one.... Fresh Bits... Good electric or battery drill or even a dremmel... Nail, Hammer and WD 40.... DRILL SLOW!!!! SLOW!!! S L O W !
i bought a drill bit guide for safety wiring, proceeded to break two bits off in it, the first time I used it, rendering it useless. fast drill speed, oil for cleaning and lube, slow steady hand, almost no pressure... let the drill bit draw itself in, so to speak, don't rush, or force feed it. BUY LOTS OF BITS, THEY ARE TINY, BRITTLE, AND BREAK EASILY. Ski
Thanks guys! Slow and steady is what will happen. Saw the tool on STG and thought that was a fool proof way to finish the job without error.......then read Ski's post. Guess screwing it up is manageable! lmao. Is there a particular bit you would recommend over another? Particular size that matters or just use a bit thats just big enough to fit the wire through? Is there a WERA guide for what needs to be safety wired? The rulebook gives examples but the pictures do not open, and I do not think it specifies in detail. Unless I am missing something. I know: Pinch Bolts Caliper Bolts Oil Drain Plug Oil Fill Cap Oil Filter Front & Rear Axel Nut (Unless running a clip) Does: Radiator Cap? Clutch Case (Center Bolt) - GSXR Anything else I may be missing?
Yes Rad cap and center bolt... RTV will work for the center bolt... Also not just the axel nut up front but the axel as well on riders left... Also don't forget all Oil Galley bolts on entire engine... You can RTV those as well... Oil lines need to be wired also... Look at it this way..Any bolt retaining any fluid needs to be done.
Cobalt bits seem to work best for me. I have bought the titanium ones and they break more easily in my opinion. This is right from the WERA rulebook, Chapter 8, Section 2a: a) The following item must be safety wired, or secured in a manner approved by Tech: axles or axle nuts, oil filler caps, kickstarter retaining bolts axle caps and/or pinch bolts, oil drain plug(s), removable exhaust baffles brake caliper bolts, *oil gallery plugs, radiator caps, brake torque arms, oil lines, coolant drains, speedo and tach cables, spin on oil filters/filter bolts, any pressure fed lubricant line *fork oil drain screws/bolts rear exhaust mount(s) (all) *brake pad retaining pins *may be secured by silicone glue or weather-strip adhesive in lieu of wiring. a1)Substantial gauge “R” type spring clips may be used in certain applications but must be wired to the machine. Tab washers designed to accept safety wire may be used. Safety pin style clips may be used on most items but NOT on oil drains or oil filters. Just RTV the 2 plugs on the clutch case cover. Also put a dab of RTV on your brake pad retaining pins, prevents them from backing out which would lead to a catastrophe.
When in doubt about if something should be wired, wire it anyways. CCS used to require brake caliper bolts wired but that requirement disappeared mid 2000's. Mine are wired anyways, rules or not. Seen 2 calipers fall off in a race when I drove the crash truck. 1 rider was lucky, 1 wasn't. 1st guy had his come off in a slow section and he just rolled off the track into the grass without going down. Other rider was on a Buell. Just won his race and going into t1 at BHF had no front brake at all and binned it in the grass. Get there with the truck and the caliper was off and no caliper bolts. He was just as astonished as the rest of us workers were.
Any reasoning why they did away with that rule? Seems silly to do away with a rule that helps keep competitors safe as not everyone is capable of torquing bolts down to factory specs
The jig will help. And you'll save $50 in bits over time. Buy cobalt bits. The titanium ones are just titanium coated and they suck. Buy a good brand. Not the cheapest ones. You get what you pay for. After doing A LOT of drilling and wiring this winter, I like the Milwaukee brand cobalt bits. Also buy some cutting oil to lubricate the bit.
They secret is in the last 1mm of the hole being drilled. What happens is that the bit is so small, as it cuts through the back side of the hole, it then acts like a screw and pulls the bit downward instead of continuing to cut, you slip or move just a little or the bit torques on direction and breaks. The fixture and drill press is the best way to go. If you're very attentive and smooth, you'll feel the bit as starts to come out the other side and you'll just ever so slightly hear the drill speed increase as the resistance is reducing. Stay with steady - NO Movement and keep the drill bit turning. It takes practice.
I am one to do things myself. With that being said I paided the Ducati dealer down here to wire my bike.... Best 100 bucks I ever spent. Sometimes things are just a lot easier to pay someone to do it instead of yourself
I used a drill press mounted a small vise to it, with lots of drill bits, plenty WD-40. I only broke 3 bits letting the drill bit do the work, took awhile but had no issues. The worst issue I had was the drill bit wander when first making contact with the bolt head. Slow and steady wins this race!