2005 Yamaha R6 Track Bike setup for BlackHawkFarms

Discussion in 'STT General Discussion' started by AOAM, Oct 11, 2016.

  1. AOAM

    AOAM n00b

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    Hey all,

    I picked up a 2005 R6 with 24k miles to convert to a dedicated track bike. I'm from Madison so will likely ride at BHF exclusively, at least for the next year or so. I've been on the track once (different bike) and enjoyed it too much to not return. I'm going through the R6 now to freshen it up to have it ready for the start of next season. Below are a few things I've done so far/plan to do. Idea is to keep it mostly stock until I learn the sport and then go from there. I have a few questions for the group to help steer me in the right direction.

    Questions
    - Sprockets: Recommended sizes for BHF? Maybe -1 in front? Recommended brands?
    - Chain: I think the bike came stock with a 532 chain. Would you recommend a 520 or 525? Recommended brands?
    - Tires: bike will be for track only. Should I still run an aggressive street compound for a season or upgrade to track/race slicks. FYI - I've driven formula Mazdas for years, so I am use to the difference in street/slicks, but not on bikes. Recommendations? I'd like something with relative longevity but what do I know.
    - Fairings/Cowlings. Need to get new plastic as the bike was low sided (previous owner), so want to pick up some good track replacements. Don't want to break the bank. Any suggestions?


    Updates
    - Complete service (valves, lube, bearings, etc)
    - New OEM lower triple
    - New steering bearings
    - New OEM front forks
    - New front wheel bearings
    - New OEM rear wheel bearings
    - New brake lines (SS)
    - New brake bads (any recommendations)
    - New sprockets and chain (see question above)
    - New track tires (see question above)
    - New track/race fairings (see question above)
    - Anything I'm missing?
     
  2. sammPD4075

    sammPD4075 Knows an apex

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    run q3 tires, do the upgrades of your choice and get the suspension set for your weight, otherwise spend the money on track time .. all the other stuff wont make u faster .. time on the bike will ... as far as gearing try -1/+1 .. youll get a million different answers on that tho .. brake pads ebc HH or vesrah rjl

    just my $0.02
     
    fixseek likes this.
  3. AOAM

    AOAM n00b

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    Thanks for that. Everything I have listed so far is just to get it to ready condition. There was front end damage so I want to ensure everything is good to go before putting it through its paces.

    I've heard good things about the Q3's.
     
  4. Woofentino Pugrossi

    Woofentino Pugrossi What's an apex?

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    Just make sure your 1st time at BHF on the bike you don't wait until the 1 marker to start braking.:eek: Guilty:D. Had a nice romp through the grass in T1 there in 99. Totally forgot I wasn't racing a CAR. Lol.

    Bodywork. Sharkskins, Armor Bodies are 2 top ones and priced accordingly. Hot Bodies are low mid end, takes a bit more fitting to get them right. I have Sebimoto on my SV650. Its for a Duc 999 and had fun fitting and trimming the glass. Theres a bunch more brands. I'd avoid getting them off ebay.

    I would recommend getting racing case guards (Woodcraft are a big name). If you do decide to start racing you'll need them anyways.

    Chain I would go with 520. Pretty much everyone with the exception of bikes like 300's and the like use 520. Brand doesn't matter, DID, EK, RK, Renthal, etc all good. Stick with o-ring at least. Sprockets again personal preference to brand. I use Pit Bulls.

    Tires. Slicks will last a bit longer than DOT's but theres an added expense of rain tires if you want to keep going if it starts raining. DOT's at least still can be used (with caution of course).

    Suspension, stock yet?

    I'd also do some safety wiring. Oil filter, oil drain and fill at the minimum.


    Down in Janesville.
     
  5. sammPD4075

    sammPD4075 Knows an apex

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    theyll do everything u need .. save ur money and run then til u get bumped to A then move to race rubber .. i got my first elbows down with q3's .. so theyre legit
     
  6. LATT

    LATT Take Only What You Need.

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    A lot of guys like the dunlops though because they tend to come up to temperature quicker so if you're not running warmers then that may be the way to go. I never cared much for the Dunlops myself due to their taller and more narrow profile. I like the shorter and wider profiles of the Michelins because they seem to give the bike a more planted and stable feel when at full lean angle. But that's just me. I wouldn't think you'd need slicks at this point but I'd definitely go with a trackday or even a DOT race compound. A sport touring tire will likely meet your needs but IMO taking a gamble on grip just isn't worth it so just get a good trackday compound (Dunlop Qualifier3 or Michelin Pilot Power 2CT) or even a DOT race compound.

    Chain and sprockets are a really good first mod btw. Cheap, easy to do and will make a big difference. For gearing recommendations I'd send a PM to one of the instructors or post your question on the CCS forum. Vortex and Renthal are both good. For the chain I'd definitely go with a 520, DID or RK.

    Bodywork, I'd go with Hotbodies because they're cheap. The fit may not be as good as Sharkskinz nor are they nearly as tough but again, they're cheap.

    Just a question, why are you buying new OEM parts? Unless there's reason to believe that these are rusted or the bike sat outside in the rain and snow for it's whole life then I'd save your money and use it for upgrades, fork internals (Race Tech cause they good but cheaper then Ohlins) and a shock (Penske, same reason) in particular. These old R6's are super reliable, I've owned three of em' and raced one with the MRA when I lived in Denver.
     
  7. twin ty

    twin ty Rides with no training wheels

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    Lots of laps there over the years there at a race pace on the 2nd gen R6. Sent you a pm.
     
    #7 twin ty, Oct 18, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2016

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