Hi all, Just bought a brand new enclosed trailer (6x12, single axle aluminum frame, leaf spring axles) and need some advice in setting up the Pitbull TRS plate mounting location.... I don't plan to bring a ton of stuff to the track, but I'm concerned about loading / weight balance both side to side and front to back, especially because the tow rig is on the "light" side (midsize SUV crossover; #3500 w/ 300# tongue). Ideally, I'd like to setup the Pitbull TRS... 1) Toward 1 side to maximize space for other things, and leave room to load a second bike occasionally. I was always told the load has to be centered left-right though, and I'm not sure I have enough "stuff" to balance the weight of the bike. 2) Closer to the rear (ie not in the nose), so that the bike can be the last thing in and first thing out of the trailer. But I know ideally the weight has to be forward of the axle to prevent trailer swaying. How far "back" can I get away with? If the pitbull plate is over or just behind the trailer axle, will that be enough weight (engine, etc) ahead of the axle? Other things I planned to haul (flexible to help balance, and can be biased to front and opposite side)... - Yeti 65 cooler in the v-nose, or on the opposite side of the bike next to trailer RV door - Possibly a genny in v-nose (if its not too loud...I use a Generac XP8500 for home use already but I don't want to start out in the sport making genny enemies hahaha). Might not be able to rely on it for weight in the trailer though, as I"d leave it home if track has power option. - Track stands, Pop-Up Tent, Fuel Jugs and other misc items Any advice will be greatly appreciated - I know I saw a lot of trailers set up like I've suggested above, I just fear I don't have enough "stuff" to balance the load, nor will I transport 2 bikes at same time often enough (I need to make more track day friends hahahaha). If its best / safest to just center the bike, then so be it and I'll make it work to fit the other stuff. Thanks!
I've always set the trailer up so the bike is on one side. Trailer doesn't care if theres a weight on one side. I set up the bike so the heaviest part of the bike (front) is forwards of the axle. Rear is behind the axle. Leaves me room behind the bike for the stands if I don't feel like putting them up on the wall mounts. Tool box is on the other wall opposite the bike as is the genny and canopies.
Balance is not very important tounge weight is very important especially pulling with a small vehicle. must have a minimum of 100#'s fairly easy to set with a bath scale. to much weight hurts the tow vehicle to little and it will sway uncontrollably at speed. I would highly recommend niceraxx for the stands hangs them from the wall close to the ceiling out of the way. cooler and fuel will add a good bit of weight.
Ok awesome - glad to hear keeping the bike just forward of the axle is fine. Even better news that the bike can hug one side! Thanks for the recommendation on the niceraxx - I’ll be sure to check them out. I was planning to look at the Home Depot ladder / bicycle wall fastrack mounts for this duty - is that a no-no? At the 18” and 36” heights, the trailer will have e-track. I already have a bunch of it (got great price when getting the trailer), but need to install after I finish insulating / putting up plywood walls...relatively straightforward job but wow is it a pain in the ass! Haha If you guys have any other recommendations and good accessories to check out, please keep it coming!
few guys use the bike hooks I really like the nice raxx and I know I am never going to have a stand jump off a wall. fyi you can buy extra pitbull mounting plates with the bolts for 30 bucks. not as easy but the bracket can also be reversed to move the bike back further with it crossing under the bely pan while you closing it in get some white 12v led strips for the ceiling you can get them at any auto parts store they work great for flush mounted lights. I have 2 packs 4 16" strips in my 7x15
Thanks again - I checked out the niceraxx and seems like good stuff, put in the order! I'm still working on insulating and putting up plywood...fuuuun. For lighting, I planned to run AC into the trailer so I got a low profile LED shoplight and a powerstrip so I can run a box fan, etc. Might not be a bad idea though to add one of those 12v just in case...
I have roof top ac and four led strips wired into the stock inside light switch so they work with the truck power or with a power supply that runs the 12volt for the ac or the inside lights. For 120volt power I bought a flexzillza 12 gauge cord and put it in a water tight box screwed to the floor underneath and than wired into a double gang box wired to two outlets
That's pretty cool...I like that! I ended up keeping it simple with a Noco Power Port....watertight connector with a extension cord pigtail that I have plugged into the shop style power strip. My LED shop light (AC) is plugged into the strip, but it has its own pull cord. The trailer I got has no 12v switch - it just has a simple LED dome lamp that is touch operated....in future if a need, I maybe piggy back an LED light strip or 2 off that for battery-power light but that's about as advanced as I'm gonna get for right now. This insulation / sheathing job isn't complicated, but it is time consuming, especially when only have a couple hours each evening, while watching the kiddos too...good thing the kids like "working on" the trailer with dad! hahaha. After I get the basics done and get it up and running for Gingerman in August, I'll have more time to mess with a better electrical setup if needed!
Alright whew....walls are insulated and now sheathed in plywood. Not difficult but a bit tedious / time consuming to say the least.... Enough that I’m checking in to see thoughts on return on investment for insulating / finishing the ceiling. It will certainly be more tedious, but less surface area. I mainly want to avoid condensation, etc. But no plans for air conditioning at this time. Storing the trailer with some gear outdoors. Thoughts? Should I just get it done while at it, or is it a waste of time?
Yes Insulate the ceiling and coat the top of the trailer with KoolSeal..... Makes a Heck of a difference in the het of the summer...
I figured - just needed the push to spark a little motivation to knock it out. I got the ceiling done and paneled. As for KoolSeal, looks like an interesting product. Any chance a similar coating would already be on the trailer? I haven't looked up close, but I know the aluminum already has some white coating from the factory. Maybe just a basic white film / paint to protect the aluminum - not sure.
May be.... If you can stick your fingernail in it like gum its the good stuff... I used one can on my 8.5 x 18and got 2 coats on.. However I do have a 35000BTU AC unit and a vent on top.... It made a huge difference in the summer... AC would keep it like a freezer....
Oh and TRS's are a must.... Best investment I ever made..... https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=dVBwZUN2Z3JHWFZVOV9TZHFST0huY19LX01vX3d3
Sweet I'll check the roof tonight but at the price point of my trailer, I'm guessing it is just normal white paint / film on the roof.
I have a 7x12 trailer, rubber torsion suspension, single axle. I've been towing it since 2003. It is set up for 2 bikes at the rear with Pit Bull restraints. The tool chest is towards the front on the left side. Occasionally I'll slip a third bike in the middle towards the front. If not, that's where my pit bike goes. I typically tow at 70-80 mph. I've occasionally been up to 100. I've had 1 bike, 3 bikes, whatever configuration you can think of. No issues. I towed with a F150 for 14 years, now use a F250 only because I moved to the mountains. I think the key is to tongue weight. Go as much as you can for your vehicle. I'm guessing mine is 300 to 400 pounds. Even coming down the mountain at speed on the brakes hard because someone didn't want me to pass them, no issues. I think they are embarrassed getting passed by a trailer who they think is there yard guy. I do have trailer brakes and a 5,000 pound axle.