Yes it is, unfortunately. Definitely not my style, hence my desire to switch to Leo Vince, Arrow, or Akrapovic. It rumbles the entire house when I start it out in the shed. At least it's a deep rumble, and not raspy.
Had to put my bike on the back burner. Have a bunch of bikes to get ready for the track season starting in Michigan, so several paint jobs to get finished, wheels to prep/coat, and more. Should get mine finished by August or September at this rate. Did a little modification to the sprocket cover. Don't mind the nasty sprocket and chain, those are getting replaced.
THE LAST LITTLE BIT OF BODY FILLER IS SPREAD!! Just a little sanding and it's complete. Hopefully laying some color this weekend! I hated how loud the stubby GYTR sounded. WAY TOO LOUD!! Rattled the house when sitting at idle. Had a friend notice a post I commented on about an exhaust for sale, and asked if I was interested in his carbon fiber Yoshimura. He barely used it, we came to an agreement, and I sold the GYTR for nearly the same price as I bought the Yosh. Win-Win for me! Much better sounding, not obnoxiously loud, and looks much better, in my opinion! Before: After: The CF looks incredible in the sunlight, even if it is a bit dusty in these pics from all of the bodywork going on at the moment... Next thing on the list is putting a little captivity to this thing. Details coming soon...
The last major piece of the puzzle is on it's way from California. Should be here within the next few days. Getting excited to have this thing roadworthy! Updates coming soon!
Those gold wheels are yummy. I have a mint set of black if your wanting black. We can just do a direct trade.
Where are you located? I'm waiting to see what they look like once the bodywork is complete, and if I don't like the gold, I may be up for a trade.
So it took a little longer than expected, the shipping company lost the fairings in transit. They finally arrived, and I got everything installed yesterday. 2007 OEM Blue and Charcoal grey fairings, in very good condition. One small nick on the lower, but I'll touch that up. Need to install WC frame sliders, engine covers, mirrors, tags/insurance, and change the oil and filter, but she's ready to go. Can't wait to actually ride this thing for the first time and see what she can do.
Sadly, the joy was short lived. Took it for it's maiden voyage on Friday after getting it legal and changing the oil. 21.7 miles later, and it spun a main. Yay! Time for a rebuild. Started stripping it down on Saturday morning. 1.5 hours later...
This isn't my bike in the video, but is almost exactly what she sounds like... Drained the oil over a fine mesh skimmer and pulled the oil pan. No metal shavings in those or the oil pickup screen, so I guess that's a good thing. Couldn't see anything out of the ordinary when looking up at the bottom end. Timing chain is still taught, engine is still timed, and valves all seem to working fine. I scooped the cylinders, and didn't see any damage to the tops of the pistons, so I don't think the pistons and valve train made contact. After reinstalling the oil pan for now, I took a break for dinner, and said what the hell? An hour later, and she was working under Flintstones power. I have a weird obsession with cause/effect when it comes to failures, so I need to find out the cause of this, or I'll go crazy wondering, even if the engine is FUBAR'd. Very simple engines to pull. Almost like Yamaha would know these things would need to pulled every other ride for a complete overhaul. I pulled the clutch cover off, and check out these steels... So a new clutch pack will be in order.
Others on here may know more then I, but from what I have gathered (after mine did this) the issue is caused by the bearing clearance being too large, which ends up delivering too much oil to certain bearing and starving others. I think its the #2 rod bearing that usually goes. I mic'ed my crank journal after I got it apart and it was .003" out of round from the damaged done after the bearing spun. Unfortunately with the R6, no one makes oversized bearings so you cant just have the crank turned down and throw a new bearing in it. there is a guy in FL I tracked down that would weld it up, turn it down, and heat treat it, but that was going to be almost the cost of a new crank. I've spoke the guys at Marietta Motorsports about this a good bit. They told me if they ordered me the crank, when it comes in they will get the #s off it, then you can send them the #s off your case and rods and they can order you all the proper bearing sizes to get the clearance to the 08+ spec and it shouldn't happen again, obviously assuming you assemble correctly . You can ebay a used crank but then your hoping the run out is all good and journals are perfect. Good luck with the rebuild... keep us posted as to what you find.
Assuming my hypothesis of this being a bearing issue holds true, I'll likely be buying a new crank, and building it back up with new 08+ spec bearings. Yamaha came out with a TSB for the 06-07 engines that told dealers to go to a different bearing with proper clearances, which are the ones they switched to in 08, but didn't go so far as to issue a recall. The other option is to swap in a low mile 08+ engine. I've been reading differing things on the swap. Some say it's straight swap using the 07 ECM, TB's, Air Box, etc. Others say you need to swap those items, so we'll see. Personally leaning towards rebuilding my current engine, and tweaking a few things, so long as no further damage is done. Thanks for the info, CB. I may be in touch to pick your brain in the future if I run into a snag.
Well, good news is I was wrong about my hypothesis of a spun rod. The bad news is that it's still not pretty. Pulled the cams and the lifters. Found this gem hiding on the #1 cylinder intake.... Was feeling hopeful since the engine was immediately shut down upon initially hearing the noise. Pulled the head to inspect the piston, and these are the results.... Now to decide the best course of action. Rebuild? Buy a new engine? Part the bike out? Sell it as is and cut my loses?
New/used piston and rings and new head and you'd be good to go. Ebay both parts (expect the rings maybe) and you might become an engine rebuilder for $500