Suspension and exhaust; Is it really needed?

John,



I'd get the Sharkskinz (or any other brand of race bodywork that's available) right away. Otherwise, I'd just ride it as is for a while & wait to see what you really end up needing. With the high quality stock components used on modern sportbikes these days, most riders should be able to ride as hard as they can before they even get close to the performance limits of a stock bike. Save your money for track days & tires.

 

If you are a bigger guy forks and shock .Stock stuff will work fine for novice and intermeadiate.

Sliders with the new bodywork .

Damper ? Let me ride it and Ill tell ya if you really need one .

I wait untill the stock stuff gets scratched ,then Id buy the pipe .If that thing really screams to 17.000 ,its breathing just fine .

Like DJ said get some tires and tracktime .

 

When the pic in my avatar was taken,the 750 is all stock xept for bodywork and tires . :mrgreen:

 

Have you met Whyslack ? :wink: Id say anything over 200 lbs.Factorys are really starting to put good parts on the 600 s now,inverted forks ,better bushings in the tubes/ones that cant move .Depends how fast you want to go .

 

Frame sliders are a good call & a steering damper is always a good idea (if it doesn't have one stock).

 

Exhaust isn't important.



Suspension however is quite important.



Whether it's a brand spanking new kick ass R6 or not making sure your suspension is set up for you on your bike is VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!! Even for new track or street riders.



It will cost next to nothing to do, just a little bit of you and some friends time.



Especially setting the sag of the motorcycle with you sitting on it. You will need two, maybe three helpful friends to do this. While you sit on the bike and someone else holds the bike up the sag should be set. Ideally with all your gear on. You want the motorcycles' suspension loaded down as if you were at the track.



30mm of sag front and rear is rule of thumb. This number can be played with but it is a good place to start. Some may argue a different # with me but 30mm is good.



Find a fixed point on the tail of the bike and measure from that point to the rear axle. Preferably the fixed point should be almost vertical to the rear axle. Measure it when you are off the bike. Sit on the bike with all your gear on while someone holds the bike in the prone position. Have someone measure from the fixed point on the tail to the rear axle. This is your rear sag measurement. If the number is less than 30mm back out the jam nut for the preload on the rear shock. If you can't back the nut out an further you need a different spring (lighter spring). If the number is more than 30mm you need to tighten the nut for the preload to achieve your proper sag #.



If your rear shock has rebound and compression damping. Find out how many clicks the shock has on each setting by clicking the small flat head screws all the way one direction then counting how many clicks the opposite direction. SET EACH IN THE MIDDLE.



For the front suspension. A zip tie around the fork tube works best for this. Push the zip tie all the way down (or up if the bike has inverted forks) so its sitting on the fork seal. Sit on the bike with all your gear on while someone holds the bike. Get down in your best go fast racing position. Maybe bounce a little bit. However far the zip tie moved is your front rider sag. Adjust preload accordingly to achieve your front sag #. If the 30mm # is unable to be achieved. You may need different front fork springs for your weight. Springs are cheep. Usually 100 bucks.



These are base line settings that every street and track rider should do on there motorcycle.