I'm 210lb plus gear. My thinking was a stiffer spring would stop the front from diving and bouncing. How do you decide who's sag and base line settings to go with. Ohlins recommends one thing. Watch a Dave moss video and he recommends a different number then the suspension guys does his thing. Last year or so I've been trying to learn about suspension set up and settings. I've managed to learn to take notes so when I mess up I can at least go back to what it was.
I don't really have one. At the beginning of last year I had Ken rebuild/service A set of forks with Ohlins cartridges and a Ohlins shock I bought used off ebay. I put them on the bike and he set everything up for me. Right away the bouncing in the front showed up under hard braking. He messed with it for the rest of the day trying to dial it out. Bike was barely ridable. End of the day he told me that its pretty cold today and see how it felt with warmer temps. Ok. Didn't see him for the rest of the year. No fault of his just didn't cross paths with him. My next track day was at Gingerman and I asked the STT Staff for some help with it and we backed off the comp. and rebound damping. That made it ridable and that's how I left it for the rest of the year. In the mean time I replaced my rotors, calipers, couple different brands /types of brake pads, rebuilt the existing master cylinder, then new master cylinder all trying to stop that bounce under hard braking. Figuring it cant be my suspension I just spent all that $$$ to make it right. Well after none of that worked over last winter I decided to try to set up my suspension myself. I looked up Ohlins #'s, and found a video of Dave Moss and set my sag, rebound and comp based on that. Those settings completely destroyed a rear Perrili SC2 in 2.5 days. Softened the rear shock and destroyed another Rear in 3 days. Over the 7-5/6 weekend I put a set of Cups on and returned the rear settings to what they were before (pre Perrili). Current settings Front Spring = 11 Free sag = 17mm Rider Sag = 32mm Comp = 1 1/3 turns out Rebound = 10 clicks out Rear Spring = 10 Free sag = 12mm Rider sag = 29mm Comp = 6 clicks out Rebound = 12 clicks out
^^^ Sorry to hear you still have that problem... I know not except maybe start with the basics and check EVERYTHING for being right and proper...Wheel bearings,rotors,rims, etc..
I've learned to ride around it. But I know there is a fix and it bugs me that I don't know what it is.
Do you have an o-ring or zip tie on your lower fork tube to show whether or not you are using all of the compression travel?
Yep. I'm using most if not all the travel. But I was reluctant to add more preload because of the stiffer spring.
If you are still bottoming out with preload maxed out, add 5mil of fork oil to each, slide your ziptye up and test again. I had to do this with my bike. I have 11.5 springs and was bottoming out under hard braking at Grattan, added oil, fixed the problem. The oil level adds to your preload of the spring. I was full stiff before the oil,6 turns out after. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm assuming by spring you mean 11 turns out from full stiff? That sag is a tad on the soft side in my opinion. 10-12mm of fork tube is a good sweet spot before mechanical bottom. I don't think there is much wrong other then settings. What do you have for suspension
Should have been more specific. The Spring is a spring rate of 11. I have Ohlins Cartridges fgk 120 up front and a Ohlins ka502 rear shock 1)For the near future I think I will try adding fork oil. I will also add preload. 2) Get signed up for Autobahn and Dave Moss for the end of September. 3) Get my stuff to Joe Craft for a service and a through going over. Thanks for the help / input. I will be back up at Grattan 8-2/3. So if any of you see a guy franticly turning clickers and covered in fork oil feel free to pull up a chair laugh / help what ever. Might not even be me but will still probably be entertaining.
1 thing at a time.. If you change more than one variable, how will you know what the right direction is?? Do me a favor find out your preload for me (count turns to full stiff, write it down and then find out complete turns, prob around 18 to guess).
Don't touch oil levels. Pull your zip tie up go 8 turns from full stiff and try that. Once you get 10-12mm of fork tube left then it's time for comp & reb adjustment. You'll find a lot of this stuff out working with moss. Which I get to do next weekend Also I'd be happy to check the bike out for ya but it will have to be early Saturday or Friday night. ;-)
Take 10 turns out of the preload, drill holes in the bottom of both fork tubes, & tell JT he can't do 24s on it... then go on top of the garages & watch him do it.
Then take the shifter off & tell Dave Grey he probably can't do 23s on it.... go back to the top of the garages & bring a camera.