I got a nice set of safety wire pliers last summer. They were like $65-$80 as I recall. This was after I spent a few bucks on some cheap pliers made in China. They lost their grip every time I was wiring and it frustrated me to no end. This nicer set wires both directions, has a nice rubber grip to collect the wire that gets clipped off, so it doesn't go flying into my toe, and just flat out works. I expect it'll work for the next 20 years. Sad to say, I was excited about this purchase.
If you're changing tires often, I like the pins/hitch clips. I make them tight enough, so the bolt can't back in a sufficient matter. However with that said, I look over the bike multiple times throughout the day. Brake lever bolt, axle, pinch bolts, brake caliper bolts, tank bolts, oil filler cap, rear axle, chain, chain adjusters, etc. You're trusting your life to your machine. Oil drain bolt, filter clamp and several other things are always fully wired. The clips are for things tire-related, generally. If I wasn't changing tires often and looking at the bike routinely, I wouldn't use clips - I'd wire everything. Riders should be looking over their bike frequently. Things rattle loose. Nelson Ledges rattled a case cover bolt loose enough where oil leaked out the next round, this past year. And we used loctite!
I used pins on my dipstick, oil fill cap, and my gopro. When I crashed, the pin pulled out of the camera housing and the gopro went sailing. I don't think I'll be using any short cuts this year.
No doubt you should look over your equipment. One thing that people don't know about loctite is that it is important to have a clean dry surface to bond. Even certain types of brake keens to clean fasteners will cause loctite products to not work properly. They even have a primer http://www.loctite.com.au/aue/content_data/133403_LT_4985_Threadlocking_Users_Guide.pdf For those that don't want clips, and don't want to drill, you can also get washers that are specifically for safety wire. Search "Tab washers". They are not reusable, and will ad weight, but if you're a street bike guy that wants piece of mind without drilling it's an option.
This is what I do. Let's be realistic, the pin isn't taking that much force to resist a bolt from backing out and like Eddie said I look over mine when I get back in from the track. The pins are fine just don't over do it and use them on everything.
Pins are perfectly fine and safe for most of the things you wire on a bike. I pass CCS and WERA tech with flying colors and the whole front end of my bike has pins.
If CCS is allowing pins now, that's a change. Old Larry used to go BONKERS if you showed up with pins. GLRRA allowed them but CCS did not and he was like, "Go rewire that shit and THEN I'll tech you!"
I have safety pin type clips on the oil cap, front calipers, dipstick and rear axle nut. The AMA didn't allow them last year but all the others were ok. The wire between the two clips is only to hold them together when changing the wheel so they don't get lost. The clip can't make a full rotation without hitting the caliper body and stopping. The banjo bolt is wired to a hole drilled in the post on the caliper with the end turned on itself so no cuts. The brake pad pin clips are held in place by the stock support pad. Like mentioned above the stuff with clips gets attention everyday at the track for maintenance. CCT and oil cap. Water pump drain and dip stick.
What's funny is you take your bike to an AMA tech and they give you a funny look because so much is safety wired.
At first I wasn't 100% behind clips on the caliper bolts but like was posted they can't turn because the caliper body/lines get in the way.
I use clips on my oil filler cap and dipstick. The issue with the clips is they sometimes come unclipped and can fall out. I wouldn't use them anywhere else.
If you get a drill press, also get a small vise that you can bolt down to the drill press plate. This way you can securely clamp your jig with your bolt in the correct position to drill. Don't think I saw it posted but also tighten the bolts you want to wire to the correct torque spec and then mark where you want your safety wire hole to be while still on the bike. Sure fire way to ensure all bolts are drilled in the proper orientation that you want when spec torque is applied for the install. I was able to do my 600 with only breaking one drill bit, went really slow and I also used WD40, but what is certain is to go slow. Good luck and if you need anything let me know I'm in Toledo area if you need help.
LOL yes if your in the big show they expect you are very professional and everything is done to perfection. :cheers:
Well, if you geek out on these types of things (and if you're reading a thread on safety wire one would have to assume that!!)..... I have a set of these - awesome pliers. More than you'd want to spend, but as with any good tool, you'll have it for life or until someone fails to return it: Milbar Wire Twisters and I LOVE this book.... a little dry reading... but it'll learn ya for sure (it certainly taught me the difference of a bolt loaded in single shear, double shear or tension.... had never thought about it before, but then again, I didn't go to school for that stuff.....): Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook Good stuff. t
I have a set with the rubber at the cutter for work, nice stuff. I'm sure they will be good for your grand kids. My track pliers (blue point) are 20 years old and still work great. I actually like them better then the newer set lol.