Window AC in Enclosed Trailer Ideas - I need pics!!!

Jay,

save up and get a roof top unit. Bracing the roof is not difficult if you can weld or know someone who can, same with the wiring. The hardest part is physically putting the unit on top (100lbs). It is going to cost more up front than what you want to spend but in the long run you will be happier, the job will be cleaner and easier to sell when you want to upgrade. Adventure RV has top units for under $600.

 

I like that Marine Hatch idea, if you could find one that matched the dimensions of a AC unit and would fit between the wall studs....that would be clean and wouldn't effect your trailer's value (might even be a selling point)...

 

Not me.... Hell I dont even own an enclosed trailer... My AC during the day is a cold towel on the neck...and a bottle of water under a EZ Up...

At night I persuade the owners of these Multi thousand dollar rigs with Alcohol and take a bunk unnoticed... :thumb:


When I do get a trailer I will do it right and mount a couple refer units up on the roof where they belong.... I do believe function over fashion however if your gonna do it do it right.....

 

I can send you the drawing of the bracing the previous owner used on mine when he did his. Shop around local for the unit if you can. There are deals out there and you will be happier in the long run.

 

Londons worth the trip for a couple of these....
http://www.camperpartsworld.com/Dometic-13500-Duo-Therm-Brisk-2-Top-Unit-Only-Air-Conditioner-1.html

 

ok Yes I see your picture So a couple of items
Yes, I painted (Kilz exterior) all my panels and the door panel. Rain is not an issue.

also I put a sheet of dry board on my door (after painting with Kilz) makes a nice place to write tire pressure, notes etc. as you kids older they will love drawing on it

I have a 10 x 10 canopy. I use my canopy to cover my door area, so again very little exposure to the elements.

I have been keeping an eye out for a used RV roll out canopy. They actually come up on e-bay and craigs list more often than I would have expected. I hope to buy one, and use that over my door area.

That leaves my pop up canopies for just me and the bikes.

 

There ya go! The optional heat strip is super easy to install if you want to add that also.

 

as noted above, find your local Good Sam store. There are two in the Atlanta area. I am sure more than one in TN. During winter they go on sale. Actually bracing is not that expensive, almost any local welder will do it. pretty common. I have a local welder that comes to my home, for something like this assuming I had the parts probably cost $80.00. Most roof studs are always 24" (industry standard) and the standard roof unit is a 22.5 opening. So you just need two cross beams between the roof studs. In fact most trailers have a vent, mine did, when it comes time to install the roof unit, I can remove the vent, add the two cross member support beams and install the roof unit. If you have a roof vent already installed it is that easy.

 

Add $98 to that price though, that is the top unit only and you need the ceiling assembly to complete it.

 

actually I think it is called camping world, not good sam. I think good sam is the club name. Like I said there are two in Atlanta and you can order and pick up at store for free.
http://www.campingworld.com/

 

I thought I had it handy but I guess not. I will look for it and when I find it, I will shoot it your way.

 

I still think Window AC can be done right. I can't seem to find my links Tiller, they may be on my other computer.

But for my trailer the plan is to mount the Window AC Unit on heavy duty drawer sliders on a platform/shelf. When I need to use the AC, I will open the Marine hatch (or other similar waterproof hatch) and slide the Window unit out. The reason for this is I like the clean look of the AC unit not always visible from the outside. Also, all the fins need access to the air to work properly.

Here is a link to the type of marine hatch I'm talking about (this one isn't quite big enough for the Window AC to slide out) http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Plastic-Access-Hatch-Inspection/dp/B00D282TL0

The heavy duty sliders can be found here: http://www.ovisonline.com/16-Drawer-Slides-220-lb-Heavy-Duty-Full-Extension-P1700.aspx

I used TinkerCad to draw up my trailer plans. Here circled in red you can see where my AC will sit, on a heavy duty shelf I'll be building. It will slide out on the heavy duty sliders. The Window AC Unit will weigh about 40 lbs, so as long as I build it sturdy enough, the shelf should hold it.


Cost:
Used AC ~$50
Sliders ~$40
Marine Hatch ~$20 on ebay


OOH I found what I'm going for:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=53519

 

Otherwise here is another idea if you don't mind it hanging out all the time:

 

Ah yes as far as it not fitting exactly, I was thinking brush type weatherstripping you see on door bottoms, or on garage doors. Similar to this



It would keep drafts out I think.

 

i ran the rooftop on mine & insulated the ceiling, i also had no bracing on it other than the bracing that was in place from the roof vent (2 deep 2x2's) and never once thought it would come off. My dad lives in TN and would likely take care of you on a roof top unit, think the last one he sold was around $675.

 

I would just fill the hatch space with a nice piece of painted plywood easily cut to size, painted to match and good to go. Filling the space seems easy compared to cutting the wall supports. On the other hand it is not that difficult to cut the wall stud, inset a wood header (think house door or window construction) and install what you need. If you are only talking one wall stud, I think a wood header would work fine. Of course a metal weld header would be better. If you were installing say a window that needs two wall studs cut, then I think a metal weld header would be necessary.